Shreen El Masry travelled from Van Vieng in Laos to Thailand's Koh Chang and found South-East Asia's history in its jungles, beaches, temples and people.

'Warning, danger in wet season.' I grasp the strap of my life jacket and nervously recite the passage from the guidebook, "has claimed the life of at least one traveller in recent years". I take a deep breath. "Here goes." On impact my body freezes as it hits the ice cold water. I let out a scream, laughter surrounds me.

I can't quite believe I'm floating along the Nam Song River in an inflatable tyre tube. As the rapids carry me I look up at the incredible mountains and limestone terrain, heavy grey clouds forming above. I close my eyes and smile as the monsoon rain gently beats down on my head.

I feel a bump, and my partner has linked our tubes. Distant shouting can be heard through the beating of the rain. As I peer through I see a woman frantically waving her arms at us to stop. She holds out a large bamboo stick. We pull ourselves in and clamber up the handmade sandbank. She hands us a beer Lao, and beckons us to follow her up the unsteady ladder. She smiles, revealing the black on her teeth, and hands us a pack of cards. We sit and laugh as we watch fellow tubers float past.

Tubing is the most famous of the many activities that the small town of Van Vieng has to offer. Just three hours from the capital Vientiane, Van Vieng is a stunningly beautiful town surrounded by mountains with the beautiful Nam Song River flowing directly through the middle.

Laos, which decided to open its doors to the tourist market in 1989 after seeing the benefits reaped by neighbouring Thailand, recently relaxed their visa restrictions, making Lao a permanent spot on the backpacker trail. Unfortunately, Van Vieng has seen the worst, due to its ever-growing number of TV bars and its notorious backpacker status of drinking, partying and drugs. However, if you can see past the hordes of travellers, Van Vieng is a place that can still be explored. The town, with its beautiful countryside, is home to networks of caves and offers activities such as rock climbing and kayaking, and the famous Tubing, which is a must for anyone visiting.

Three days in Van Vieng is enough, though. As the repetition of Friends episodes get too much, we decided to take refuge in the Royal city of Luang Prubang and discovered why it holds its reputation. The city is absolutely breathtaking. Lao was made part of French Indochina and its French influence reflects on this remarkable city, particularly with its 32 Wats, which have a mixture of French-Lao architecture.

In a comfortable, deep sleep on our first night, I was woken by the sounds of loud drumming. Murmuring, I checked my watch - it was 6am. I dragged myself out of bed and onto the balcony of our guesthouse and was greeted by an extraordinary site of countless barefoot saffron-clothed monks, walking in single file. Gripped in their hands were gold-rimmed wooden bowls. Local women were kneeling waiting for the monks who paused in front of them, each woman contributing a pinch of cooked rice. The ritual, though a common tradition throughout South East Asia, is special in Luang Prubang because of its magical setting. Encircled by peaks and rivers, tropical foliage and the beautiful backwater, the orange and gold of the temples glisten in the distance, making Luang Prubang a perfect setting for a fairytale.

During the Vietnam War, Vietnamese communists used Lao as a hideout. It had more bombs dropped on it than the amount used during the Second World War, making it one of the most bombed nations on earth. It is astonishing how well preserved Luang Prubang is. It was made a UNESCO world heritage site in 1991, and aptly named the most beautiful city in South East Asia.

The best way to see Luang Prubang is by bicycle, which can be hired for as little as one dollar a day. By cycling around the city, you get a real feel for the culture. You can explore the remarkable Wats such as Xieng Thong on the northern tip of the peninsula, Luang Prubang's most magnificent temple. Stop at the riverside restaurants and sample tradition Lao cuisine such as Khai phun, dried seasoned river moss, a Luang Prubang speciality.

As our 15-day visa began to run out, we booked our flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Before we left for the airport, we bought our guesthouse owners beer. Embodying true Buddhist sprit, they begged us to join them for a drink at 10am! As we left their kind smiles, we hoped that our next destination would be as magical and unforgettable as Luang Prubang.

Page 1 - Laos | 2 - Cambodia | 3 - Thailand